Professional Plastic Pedal Mod

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For every sim racer who has spent copious amounts of disposable income on top of the line wheels, pedals, monitors, racing seats, and audio enhancements, an entirely separate group of sim racers are still struggling to make-do with entry level wheels. While I’ll be the first to encourage any serious virtual race car driver to go out and purchase a Logitech G27, as you really shouldn’t be playing with flimsy plastic garbage under your feet, sometimes an individual’s life situation doesn’t allow them to splurge on fancy toy steering wheels. As a result, busy college students, curious teens, or gamers just looking to dip their feet into the world of sim racing are sometimes left with entry-level equipment that isn’t always the best tool for the job – and it can make the whole experience a lot less enjoyable. It’s not fun to nurse a car around the track, muttering over chat every few minutes that you can’t wait to save up for a new Logitech product.

Surprisingly, there’s a simple way to bypass this issue altogether and actually get your shitty plastic loaner pedals some useful mileage.

As I’ve stated before, I own a Logitech Driving Force GT, and when used on the PC, I combine it with Logitech G27 pedals via the Bodnar cable – essentially splitting my controls between two completely different input devices. However, the PlayStation 3 doesn’t let you get away with such sorcery, and I’m left with the default set of plastic pedals – which are absolute junk on their best days. I’m not saying that they’ve fallen apart on me – hell no, I take care of my shit – but compared to the metal composition of the G27 pedals, having tiny pieces of plastic under your feet just doesn’t work in a racing situation. I can’t modulate anything to save my life, and I usually have to slap on ABS assists because the brake pedal is so goddamn inaccurate.

This isn’t my picture, but imagine making the jump from the pedals on the left, to the pedals on the right – and then back again if you’re not feeling the PlayStation 3 vibes that day. It’s not fun, like using a weighted bat before baseball practice, and then realizing your swing is all sorts of fucked up when practice starts.

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The solution for the obvious troubles this presents, is to go find a short bungee cable at your local department store. They typically retail in the ten dollar range for a pack of… well… ten, and there’s a chance you actually have some floating around your house already. Once you’ve located said bungee cord, wrap it around your brake pedal (and only the brake pedal) like I’ve demonstrated in the following image:

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You want it extremely tight, so depending on the length of the cord you’ve found, you may need to wrap it around the pedal itself a few times. If it’s not a genuine challenge to hook the ends to the base of the pedals, it’s not tight enough. Your feet will be pushing this, remember, not your hands.

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What this simple mod accomplishes, is that it adds tension on the brake pedal, and allows you to modulate your inputs more precisely thanks to the fact that it doesn’t get slammed to the floor when you breathe on it. Some may suggest an additional bungee cord is needed for the throttle pedal, but I don’t believe so. With a throttle pedal, it’s going to be pushed completely to the floor 95% of the time, so modulating it isn’t as important on corner exit – especially since a good line can negate the need for any throttle management. However, with a brake pedal, you need that precision. A bungee cord gives you that precision, acting as a pseudo-spring that higher-end Logitech equipment features.

Again, I don’t suggest using low-end equipment like this to begin with, but not all readers of PRC.net can just go out and buy something great from Logitech or Fanatec, so they’re required to make do with what they have. If you’re looking to get the most out of your garage sale wheel, this is the single most important “modification” you can make.

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37 thoughts on “Professional Plastic Pedal Mod

    1. There’s a full investigative report with loads of forum screenshots and mental health diagnoses in the works. Kunos lied, mods died!

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    2. They are working to give us valuable information on the 3D model of the Toyota A86. 3D model wrong = physical Wrong

      This is simply a filler news.

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  1. Surely the extra pressure you’re applying to the brake pedal would just make you push the pedal set across the floor?

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    1. My pedal rest on a 10” swoofer..FOC Buttkicker..Sad ISI games do not properly support 5.1 surround except R3E..AC da best.

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    2. I found this when I switched to my fanatec set from the DFGT… ended up putting my graphics card box between the pedals and my wall. Actually works a charm. Until my seat then started sliding away under any form of braking :/ poor sim racers problems.

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    3. If you have your pedals on a carpet, they nicely dig into the carpet usually so you don’t have to worry about them moving. Alternatively, if you are not a manlet, depending on how your desk is setup, your pedals will be pushed against the wall of your room anyway.

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  2. “While I’ll be the first to encourage any serious virtual race car driver to go out and purchase a Logitech G27, as you really shouldn’t be playing with flimsy plastic garbage under your feet…”

    What a bullshit. About everybody who upgraded form any Logitech wheel to a T300 or better is more happy now and when quality is more important than the budget, don´t spend the money on anything cheaper than Fanatec or better go dd-wheel with high-end pedals or at least v3. Thrustmaster is more plastic toy stuff, but if they gonna bring a dd-wheel with as much or more than 10 Nm torque (so doubling the torque of the T300), it´s an option for people with that budget.

    I would suggest to look, what you are spending for other stuff you care for. I like cycling and my bicycle is above the 2k range because i like to spend more money on quality, best engineering, low maintenance and a high lifespan in this case. I regret i bought the cheaper stuff (TX, CSR Elite) before upgrading to AF and HE Pro like i regret the cheaper bicycles before. TX and Elite are not bad, but both have issues. TX/T300 suffer from FFB-fading (especially in summer time) and the 8 Bit / 256 steps with the Elite pedals are not sensitive enough, they have connection issues, springs and load cell will not last 3 years with higher usage. Paying even much more fore high end stuff can be cheaper in the long run with a lot less issues, more accuracy and fun.

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    1. >Fanatec
      >quality

      You can spend a shitload of money chasing dreams but when it comes to consistency and uptime so you can concentrate on getting faster rather than chasing hardware Logitech does great.

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    2. It doesn’t help the elitist reputation of sim racers to say a $250 wheel is too low quality to be worth buying… to my normal gamer friends, if it costs more than an xbox, it’s completely out of the question to buy as a peripheral.

      Liked by 1 person

    3. A 2K road bicycle is equivalent in the ladder to a wheel like the T300 mate. A pair of top notch high profile wheels like the Bora or the Dura Ace will cost that alone.

      Pros race with bikes in the 6-10K range, amateurs -like me- usually stick with 3K+ bikes. Any decent carbon monocoque frame with a decent set of components (Shimano Dura Ace /Campagnolo Record/ SRAM Red) and good wheels will never be around the 2K mark. Not even if you settle for stuff like Ultegra (which isn´t too bad).

      If you have a 2K bike you have a T300 under your ass, not a DD wheel.

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      1. No, the T300 is like a 300 bucks bike and i wasn´t writing about racing bikes. That´s a hole other story and when it involves weight-reduction, it get´s far more expensive, but 2k bikes will do a good job in an uncompetitive environment. Racing, MTB or whatever, for 2k you get a decent bicycle you can trust, with long lifetime components and proper working shifters. T300 is plastic stuff. FFB can vary within a race, probably getting weaker. This screw holding the plasic tube probably get loose after a while with the effect of having miss-shifts and weird button behavior during races. I bought a bicycle for 700 bucks a while ago which did a much better job (full Deore-components).

        And the AF is an entry-level DD-wheel and the OSW-wheels have even far better motors. I think that the Sim Commancer Software is a good advantage, but know people upgrading their AF to a OSW Lenze and never looking back. I´m happy with the second or third best option. The HE Ultimate are probably better than my HE Pro, but for the last 10% of awesomeness you have to add about 70% more money and that´s not in my budget.

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        1. Cyclist are fucking gay arse middle class dweebs, if you gonna get dressed up to get dirty, at least do a manly activity, may I suggest the local rugby club, or if solo ya thing boxing or MMA gym will do soft flabby cyclist some good, and it means there is less lycra clad idiots to run down in me car.

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        2. I wasn’t talking about “racing bikes” either, just road bikes. A 2k road bike is OK, but nothing special. Like a T300.

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    4. Your comparisons with cycling are surely not worthy of any dedicated sim racer.What sort of sim racer spends time and money on a healthy hobby like cycling when they could be down in the basement of the parents house playing a pretend game away from all that fresh air munching Doritos.

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      1. basement? What happened to people having their own rooms. What about people that live in an apartment and don’t have basements? Where does your stereotype fall?
        You’re taking it too far. People who play sim racing aren’t pretending anything. We don’t pretend we are some real life driver, we don’t pretend we are hamilton or something. We are just playing/racing in a sim, often with a ffb wheel. I don’t see where the pretend is.

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      2. I’m loving both and living in a country with more than 6 months bad weather in the year there are often little choices what to do.

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    5. For the average sim-racer (or even sim-pro) a G27/G29 is more than enough. A DD/Belt wheel won’t make you any faster. If you claim otherwise, you are full of shit. Does it increase immersion? Yes, but nothing else.

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  3. I have 2 sets of logitech pedals (DFGT, which is cheap, and a Formula GP, which is super cheap).

    The DFGT’s brake pedal has the worst spring in all 4 pedals. First 50% of travel is almost 0 pressure However, the sensor itself is fine.
    The Formula GP has a much stronger spring, but the sensor is complete fucking trash. I use it for a clutch pedal, and I have to set nearly 40% deadzone at the bottom because that’s how much the signal varies at ‘completely up’.

    I might have to try the bungee thing out. my only concern is the hooks would scratch the floor under the pedals since I’m playing on hardwood.

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  4. Putting something underneath the “arm” of the brake works too, if one has a piece of moderately pliable foam or rubber lying around. I did that in ye olde days when I had DFP pedals and we boffed about in the National Series at Iowa and New Smyrna every night

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    1. This. When I had DFGT I put a piece of dense plastic foam under the pedal arm. I believe some have used squash ball successfully too.

      DFGT is great budget wheel. Only bad features are the pedals and paddle shifters which are just small buttons. I bought Granturgismo’s aftermarket paddles which improved the overall driving experience quite a lot.

      Liked by 1 person

  5. Need more Kunos shit.
    What is this site becoming.
    Bungee BDSM articles pending.
    The night is dark and full of terrors.
    Winter is coming.

    … Hodor

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